MD Beveled armrest making

I took photos for entire process of the beveled armrest making. Beveled armrest making requires many steps, and steps are;
1. Cutting a bevel core from a Mahogany piece
2.  Assemble the bevel core inside the side
3.  Cut the side for beveled armrest
4.  Assemble the top
5.  Make a purling channel, and Install a purfling on top
6.  Make a binding channel, and installed a purfling for side
7.  Install Ebony binding
8. Install veneer on the beveled armres
9. Cur our excess veneer, and sanding.

What a complicated process for the beveled armrest making. This time, I used Ebony for binding and veneer to match the color. Large black ebony piece is very hard to find. I obtained a large piece of veneer from a Macassar ebony sheet for head plate. Color is slightly lighter; however, it seems very good matching as a complete binding.

Now, body makings are completed for both MD model and Nylon model. Next week, I will start neck making.

 

Completed Beveled armrest

 

Cutting a bevel core

 

Assemble the bevel core

Cut the side for beveled armrest

 

Assemble the top

  

Assembled body

 

Install a purfling on top

 

Made a binding channel, and installed the purfling for side

 

Install Ebony binding

 

Install veneer on the beveled armrest

 

Completed armrest

Nylon body complete

Nylon model completed the body construction work. I installed all bindings including a cut-a-way portion. With the Bocote binding trim, the nylon body reviles to show real beauty with nice color contrast. Once the finish is applied, this body going to be show really beautiful flames.

Purfling Install

     I did purfling installing work for MD and Nylon models. I usually cut a border between purfling and the top to prevent chipping for German and Carpatian tops. Those materials are very soft and very easily create chipping-out. After the hand bordering, I make a purfling channel using a Dremel with a spiral bit. After making the channel, I did hand trimming to create clean and nearly perfect channel fitting. Then, purfling material was glued using the tight bond. Both MD and Nylon model have been don for purfling installation. 
     Next step is binding installation. This process is a very time consuming process.

 

Purfling and Binding

     This week, I made purfling and binding. For the binding, I will use Ebony for the MD and Bocote for the Nylon model. I bend binding and related black-white laminate together using the bending machine. I put binding materials inside an aluminum foil with a little bit of moisture for preventing brittle during bending process.
     For purfling. I have been using withe (maple) - Brazilian RW - white - Black combination. After bend the Brazilian RW using the bending machine, I laminate all materials using a laminate mold. You may see completed binding and purfling.
      Next step is installing those materials in the guitar body. The body needs very precise channels for seamlessly accommodate those materials. This is a time consuming process.

Neck making

     I have been using laminated neck technology. Basic material for my necks is Spanish Ceder or Cedro. Cedro has slightly lighter weight than Honduras mahogany. Cedro also has slightly larger pores that Mahogany. After the lamination work, I use a #7 jointer plane for making reference plane. Steel strings necks are quite simple to make. However, a slotted neck making is a bit complicated. My slotted neck head has square slots for four machine heads and three machine heads. To make square slots, I cut the head potion first to create square slots, and then glue again. Then, the slotted head is connected to the neck using a V-joint technique. V-joint is a traditional technique that has been using  among Spanish guitar makers.
     Those rough cut neck blanks will be sit in idol for a white until lamination stresses are released. While waiting neck blanks to stabilize, I will go back to detailed work for bodies.

 

Closed a box for MD

     MD body was closed this weekend. I added a beveled armrest for the MD model. A beveled lining was cut from a Mahogany piece, and then it glued to the side. Then, I made channels for top and back bracing. I always attach the back first, because I am able to clean-up excess glue. Then, splayed two cotes of nitro-cellulose. I use a spray technique for the internal back coating, because the King wood has a lot of reddish stain. This stain contaminates all over the backs, and it ends up with very messy appearance. After I closed the box, I trimmed the beveled armrest portion. Now, the MD body has the nice beveled armrest.
     Next week, I will work with a neck blanks making. Neck blanks need couple of weeks for stabilizing after a lamination work. I have been managing fairly effective building schedule for my guitar making projects.

Closing a box

     I closed a box for a nylon model. Before closing the box, I applied two coats of Shellac for side, back, and top. Shellac coating improves moisture stability for a completed guitar. I usually use amber (non bleached) shellac, because the non bleached shellac is able to make ticker and stronger coatings. You may see a shellac coated top, and the top has amber color. This is the color of amber shellac. After closed the box, I did taping test. This guitar showed more than 1-second long lasting tapping sound. Longer sustaining tap tone is a sign for creating a good sound quality for nylon strings guitars.
     Next week, I will close the box for the MD model.