Side assembly

I have been working on side assembly process. Side assembly requires a lot of time for precisely aligning blocks. Blocks are made by recycled Spanish ceder those are came from neck making. So, I will not wast any materials. Side assembly for the SSJ model is completed. Now, I am working on the nylon model.

Side bend and laminate

     Side bend and laminate works are done. Honduran RW was sanded to approximately 1.5mm thickness. Yellow ceder was also sanded to 1.5mm thickness. Total thickness for the sides is approximately 3mm. I have been using Epoxy for the side laminate. Epoxy is the best for me because of the slow curing time. Side laminate needs wide space spreading the Epoxy for both materials. It requires relatively long time for Epoxy apply. Wood glue (Tight bond) and Gorilla glue are too first for the curing, although both glues show equally good results. I prefer to use the Epoxy.
     Next week, I will make blocks for tail and neck. I also make solid linings.

Back making

     Back making is done. Back center strip is Ebony with Black-White border. Back bracing is made by Red spruce. My back thickness is approximately 2mm. Therefore, the very thin back requires the lattice bracing to make a nice continuous doming. Traditional ladder bracing requires a relatively thick back board thickness to create smooth doming. When the thick less is less than 2mm, the Ladder bracing start distorting in between braces. Unlike the ladder bracing, the lattice bracing has many advantages. Lattice bracing is also lighter than ladder bracing. Light weight is another advantage for me. Only negative side is more time consuming for the lattice bracing. Also, the lattice bracing installation requires the vacuum clumping to apply even pressure.
     Next step is the side making. I will use laminated sides using Yellow ceder. I also use Epoxy laminate technique.

X-Bracing

     I completed X-bracing based top making. This bracing design is for the SSJ model. This top bracing work has not been done for scaropping work. Bracing material is the Adirondack spruce and Madagascar RW for the bridge plate. Brazilian RW is the best for the bridge plate; however, due to the limit-ted availability, I have been using the Mad RW.
     This page also shows Nylon top using the Balsa wood lattice with Epoxy Carbon fiber laminate. This top is for the Classical guitar. Classical guitar has more modernized design than Steel-strings guitar. We should say that Steel-strings guitars are classical, because from a view point of guitar design and structure evolution, Steel strings guitars has not been changed since the X-bracing was invented by Martin Guitars.

Lattice Bracing

For the Jazz Nylon model, I installed lattice bracing. This time, I used the Balsa wood for bracing. Bracing weight is only 8 grams before shaping. This weight is approximately 3-times lighter than Spruce based lattice bracing. After shaping the Balsa bracing, I also installed Carbon fiber filament using Epoxy. Additional Epoxy weight is approximately 2-grams. So, the Carbon fiber laminated lattice bracing top has super light weight. Top material is Spruce and thickness is between 1.3mm and 2mm depending on location. Although the top has super thin profile, Epoxy Carbon laminated top is super strong and stable against climate change.

Next week, I will work for the X-bracing for the steel strings model.

New Projects Start

New projects for Nylon and Steel models started. Both models use Honduran RW for B&S. Steel uses German spruce, and Nylon model uses Capatian spruce for the top. Both models are center sound hole and original Rosetta made from Spoiled Tamarind, Cocobolo, Black wood, and Myrtle. I already completed back and top joint, and Rosetta making.

SSJ Complete

SSJ is finally completed. Lutz spruce top showed different sound than European. Lutz has slightly less over-tones than European tops. However, this material shows stronger middle range sound. 3rd-strings has very strong power. Strong mid range is required for steel strings guitars. Usually, guitars have weak sound volume in the 3rd string. This means that this SSJ model has almost ideal tonal balance. So, I am very happy with this result. Hiscox hard-shell case has the perfect fit for my SSJ model. Now, this SSJ is ready for shipping.

Bridge Install

Bridge install has been done. Bridge for the SSJ is made by Cocobolo. Cocobolo needs Alcohol treatment to remove oil from the glue surface. Oil sometimes creates a bridge disconnection issue. I always use Alcohol to wipe out oil from the glue surface. After installed the bridge, I drilled and fitted to bridge pins for bridge pin holes. This guitar needs a little fret wire dressing and polishing. Then, I will make nut and saddle. I might be able to test this guitar next week.

Final Polishing

It is been two weeks to completely cure the final coat. I start taking final polishing. I have done 1200-grid and 2000-grid wet sanding. Now, I am working on the final polishing. I have been using hand polishing for more delicate work. Also, hand polishing does not make excess heat that may damage the finished surface. I also completed the finishing work for the bridge. After complete the polishing work, I will install the bridge. This guitar will be completed in two weeks.

Bridge making

I did bridge making for the SSJ model. Bridge material is Cocoboro. My bridge must have less than 35-grams weight. This one is 33-grams, and it looks good for me. Bridge thickness is approximately 8mm at this moment. However, after curved the bottom for matching the top doming, the final thickness might be 7.5mm. I will apply two coats of Shellac, and then I will have filling session using Silica power and Alcohol.

Final Coat apply

After complete Epoxy filler apply and final sanding for the pour filling, I completed final coat apply.
I have been using Target EM6000 Water based Acrylic finishing material. I have tried different finishing materials such as KTM-9, EM6000, and EM7000. However, the EM6000 shows the almost satisfaction is guaranteed result. This finish cures very first and never shows white portion once cured completely. Also, I am able to apply as thick as possible without any issues. Completed coat is crystal clear and very easy to polish starting with 1200-grid sanding paper. Final coat requires at least 7-days curing time. Then, I will take polishing work. Next week, I make a bridge and then start assembly work.

Sanding work complete

SSJ Final sanding work is done. After completed the sanding work, the top showed the perfect silk pattern. Silk pattern only appears the spruce top material that has the perfect quatersawn cut. I have never seen this much perfect silk pattern. I purchased this top approximately 5-years ago from a Canadian wood supplier who is specializing the Lutz spruce. Lutz spruce is a naturally hybridized material between Sitka and Englmann. After completed the sanding, this guitar shows the very promising tapping tone. Next week, I will apply Epoxy filler, and then I will take sanding sessions. I need two filling and sanding sessions for the Black wood body with the Spanish Ceder neck.