Orange-peel remmoving

Splayed final coats were completely cured after 14-days. However, splayed surface is not a gross finish leveling, and the surface state after the final splaying is called as "Orange peel". I did a 400-grit dry sanding with very gentle touch, because the 400-grit sandpaper is able to sand-out completely the finish. Then, I finished with a 600-grit water sanding for Orange peel removing. Necks and bodies have been done for orange peel removing work this week-end. This is a very time consuming work. If I accidentally over sanded all the way down to the wood surface, I have to start over for the spraying work. So the orange-peel removing is a very sensitive and risky work. However, it is depending on the pore filling work quality. If I was able to create near perfect surface leveling during the pore filling work, the orange-peel removing work is a straight-froward task. In fact, I was able to remove orange-peel for both MD and SSJ models. What a relief!

Next week, I will have polishing works to make gross finishing surface. Those guitar making projects are approaching to the final step.

New model design

While I am waiting to get final coats for curing, I am designing a new Nylon model. My design goal is to make a recording model for studio works. This model has less bass compared with my existing Kasha model. I will use similar Bracing system as my modified Kasha model. As you can see a picture shown below. Right is a mold for Kasha model, and Left is a mold for Jose Ramirez model. This time, I will make a Nylon model which has a Ramirez size with Kasha bracing system with cut-a-way body design. This guitar also has a floating armrest. This is not the Ryan style beveled design, because Nylon model need to isolate your right arm from the top.

Using material is Oregon Myrtle for Back and sides. Top is a German spruce. This time, I will use spruce for the side laminating material to minimize gaining weigh. This photo shows the Myrtle B&S set. This material has amazing flame and some birds eyes. I have a reliable local Myrtle source in South Oregon.

I will make an MD model parallel with the new Nylon model project. I will use the King's wood (Camatillo Rose wood) fro B&S. I already finished back joint and thickness sanding for B&S. King's wood has pretty good glassy tap-tone. Tap-tone is almost identical to the Brazilian RW. This material is slightly heavier than Brazilian. So, I made much thinner back and sides. Top material is the Carpatian spruce. Carpatian is a read spruce, and very similar to German spruce with slightly wider grain spacing. I really like this material for steel strings models. Right one in the photo shown in bottom is German top for my new Nylon model.

Final coat apply

I applied final coats for the MD and SSJ models. Both bodies and necks are coated by Water-base acrylic lacquer. I have been using the Target Emtech 7000 clear gloss water-base acrylic lacquer, because this material is non-toxic and non-flammable. Nitrocellulose lacquer is much easier to splay to get thick coats fairly quickly without generating sagging issues. Water base lacquer has way less viscosity for applying compared with nitrocellulose. So, I needed to apply five coats/day at 1-hour intervals. I spend two days to apply total nine coats. To obtain clear and even finishing surface, water base lacquer requires fairly sensitive control for air pressure, distance, and moving speed. I have enough experiences to obtain nice finishing quality. Those are photographs for finished guitars. It will take 14-days to start final polishing and buffing sessions.

Pore filling is done

Time consuming pore filling process has been done. Now, MD and SSJ bodies and necks are completely pore free. Necks are coated with an Alchole dissolved Epoxy for making an even color distribution. I will apply final spray coatings next weekend.

I am working on next project. I will make an MD and a modified Kasha. I will use the King's wood for the MD and Oregon Myrtle for the modified Kasha. King's wood is a super rare material. Tonally and cosmetically speaking, this material is better than Brazilian rosewood for me. Oregon myrtle is my Favorited material. Myrtle shown below has incredibly beautiful figures. This material also makes a super nice looking guitar.