Bridge making and Pore filling

 I made a bridge using the Padauk. For me, the Padauk is the best material for the bridge. Padauk is much lighter than Rose wood. However, the material hardness is almost equivalent as the rose wood. So, the Padauk bridge is lighter, but equally hard enough to the rose wood. I wanted the bridge weight less than 25grams. This bridge is 23grams. I completed the final sanding work for the guitar. I did a first session of the Epoxy filling work using the System-3 Epoxy with the Silica thickener. It looks like that the Padauk requires three Epoxy filling sessions before go to the spraying session.

Neck Shape and Fret wire install

 After install the finger board using the Epoxy glue. I did the 20' radiousing work on the finger board. Then, I installed fret wires.  I also completed the Neck shaping work. My neck profile is 21mm at 0-fret and 23mm at 10th fret. This guitar has the Gibson style neck volute. Gibson neck is quite famous abut neck braking when the neck has herd impact. My neck has the front and back veneers. Also, my neck has double graphite re-enforcement at the joint between the neck and the head. So, my guitar has the super strong neck configuration. After I complete the neck shaping. I move to the final sanding work. The sanding work will be done in couple of hours. After that, I will move to the Epoxy filling work.

Truss rod and heal cap install

Neck installation requires precise adjustments. I have been using a 70mil (1.78mm) distance from the bridge top. I have been using a straight edge with a dial gauged to precisely measure the neck angle. After install the neck. The mortise neck joint requires to install two dowels for the permanent neck joint. After complete the dowels installation, extended truss rod channels were cut. Then, I installed two graphite rods and an adjustable truss rod. Truss rod covers were installed using Epoxy glue. I also installed a heal cap. Next steps are the finger board installation and the fret wire installation.