Set-up part 1

      Finishing work is done. I am doing a set-up work. First step was the bridge install. I have been using the vacuum clumping system. This system enables to install a bridge with minimum failure. My bridge design has super thin edges to minimize weight. Conventional clumping technique does not work for my bridge design. Conventional method is not able to press super thin edges nicely. However, the vacuum clump is able to apply holding forces evenly with the rubber membrane.

     While weighting the bridge glue set, I did fretting work. For the fretting work, side portion needs to be protected by a plastic tape. Then, the fingerboard surface is also protected by the masking tape. Fret wires were painted with a maker, and then fret wired were filed for the leveling. After the leveling work was completed, re-crowning work has been done. Fret edges were also filed to make smooth edges. Then, I applied the boiled linseed oil to the finger board surface. Boiled linseed oil prevents the finger board clacking issue. I recommend to apply the boiled linseed oil every three year. Bridge pin installation was done. My bridge pins have designated number in it. Bridge pins must not be mixed. Now, nut and saddle making works are on going. Those processes need some adjustment to obtain the best action setting. All of assembly jobs and final adjustment will be done by end of next Sunday.

Polishing work

      After cure the EM6000 coats, 2000 grid water paper polishing work was done. Next step is the buffing. I do not have a buffing machine. I have been doing a hand polishing using the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7. It is very time consuming work; however, it makes equally nice finish as the buffing machine work.  Third photo is the before the Meguiare's polishing. Photo 4, 5, and 6 are after final polishing. 

     Next week, I will install the bridge, Now, the final polishing for the bridge is completed, and it is ready for install to the body.

Final coating and bridge making

      Final coating work is done. I sprayed total 9-coats of EM6000 water based acrylic lacquer. I did two sanding sessions in between. First sanding was the 400-grit and the second sanding was the 600-grit. Sanding sessions are not necessary in theory. However, some unwanted debris were happened in the spray session. To make a nice and clean surface, I did two sanding sessions.

     I did one Epoxy filling session for the bridge. Bridge material is a Madagascar RW. After the epoxy filling, I had a sanding session with the 600-grid sanding paper. Then, I applied couple of coats of Shellac. After cure the shellac, I will have 0000 steel wool polishing to make a matt finish.

First Spray Session

      I have done a first spray session. After two coats of EM6000 water based acrylic lacquer spray, I fixed tiny pores. Tiny pores are very herd to recognize after Epoxy filling sessions. Once apply lacquer spray, tiny pores are visible. I have been using the EM6000 with silica thickener powder. This formula works as pore filler. Silica thickener is a powder glass. So, this thickener is 100% transparent. After over night cure, I have 400-grit dry sanding session to make pore free finish. Now, the guitar is ready for the final spray session.

     EM6000 is an excellent water based acrylic lacquer. However, you cannot apply this water based finish to a bare wood surface. You can imagine that you are spraying water into a bare wood surface, if you do not have primer coats. That is why I have been using Epoxy filler for the water based acrylic lacquer. Epoxy filler is also a primer coat to protect moisture from the water based acrylic. 

     I finished three coats spraying today. I will have four to seven more coats depending on locations in next couple of days.